Noodles

Making noodles is a lost art. Most people buy their noodles (fresh as well as dried) from shops, but it is actually not difficult to make them if you understand the basic principles and techniques. I started making noodles at home a few years ago as I struggled to find good quality noodles in the UK. Incidentally, I bought a noodle machine in Shanghai when I was holidaying there. Like the rice cooker, it offers me a great alternative to make noodles when I am busy, but this can never replace the experience and enjoyment of making noodles by hand. The quality of noodles made by the machine is not bad at all, but the problem is the flour is simply mixed with water and other ingredients, and the dough is not kneaded properly.

The Ingredients and Their Properties

Noodles are most commonly made from wheat flour. It can also be made from rice flour (e.g. Chinese Ho Fun 河粉 and rice vermicelli), buckwheat flour (e.g. soba noodles), mung bean starch (e.g. Shaanxi glass noodles called liangpi 涼皮), sweet potato starch (e.g. Korean dangmyeon noodles), or a combination of different types of flour. It will not be possible to cover all the different varieties of noodles in this webpage, but will focus on noodles made from wheat flour.

The protein content of the wheat flour should be in the range of 10–14%, and is responsible for the elastic and chewy texture of noodles. The proteins, when mixed with water, form the remarkable material called gluten, which is a mixture of two protein groups, gliadins and glutenins. They have different but complementary physical properties. Gliadins provide viscosity and increased extensibility (the stretch of the dough), whereas glutenins is responsible for its elasticity (the ability to return to its original shape after stretching). Kneading promotes the process of unfolding and aligning the long, initially tangled gluten molecules. In the end, sheets of gluten associations are interleaved in the dough, which takes on a smooth, fine texture. The dough becomes stiffer to manipulate and much more elastic. It is important to relax the dough after kneading. The toughest gluten bonds will break, allowing the chains to slip past each other. The dough will become softer and be easier to rolled out.

Starch is a major component of flour. Its swelling and gelatinising characteristics determine whether the surface of noodles is sticky after cooking.

A small amount of salt is added into the dough for the taste. But it also prevents the gluten from being weakened into a sticky mass by inhibiting the activity of protein-digesting enzymes in the flour.

In Asia, a small amount of kansui (alkaline water), a mixture of sodium and potassium carbonates, is often added to the dough. This significantly increases the elasticity and strength of the dough by increasing the cross-linking of glutenin. Kansui also gives a bright yellow colour to the noodles. The natural flavonoid pigments in flour are white in an acidic medium but turn yellow in an alkaline medium.

Egg has amazing binding abilities and improves the texture of noodles. When exposed to the oxidative environment of ambient air, the sulfur containing cysteine amino acids in the gluten and egg ovalbumin protein form disulfide bonds with each other. Egg provides additional proteins in the dough, giving the noodles a more tender and silky structure. Within the protein-rich yolk is beta-carotene which provides the golden hue we see in egg noodles.

All the ingredients of my noodle recipes are expressed in weight as cup, volume and teaspoon measures tend to be inaccurate. Flour is considered as 100% and all other ingredients are expressed as percentage of weight of flour.

Udon Noodles

Udon (うどん) are thick Japanese noodles made of wheat flour. It may be served cold or in hot broth. It is often made by home cooks as they are very easy to make. In Asian supermarkets, I often see “instant udon” packs and their qualities are nowhere near home-made udon, although they are widely used by Chinese chefs for wok frying. I also find frozen and dried udon noodles which are of better quality. Sanuki Udon (讃岐うどん) is a variety of udon which has square cross sections and flat edges. The noodle is served al dente with a firm and chewy texture, and in a highly fragrant iriko dashi (anchovy stock). Kagawa is the smallest prefecture in Japan, but the biggest consumer of udon. Sanuki Udon is named after the previous name of the Kagawa Prefecture, Sanuki Province.

You only need three ingredients to make udon – wheat flour, water and salt. Medium gluten flour (11-12% protein by weight) should be used for making udon. Organic plain flour is a good choice but check the nutrition information label of the flour packet. The protein content of plain flour may vary a lot among different brands. Some of the plain flour sold in the UK have low protein content (less than 11% protein by weight) and will need to be mixed with high-gluten bread flour to achieve good results. I have used white flour made from the English wheat called Maris Widgeon with very good results. You may wish to experiment with different varieties of white wheat flour, enhancing your enjoyment of noodles. The recommended amount of water to be added to the flour is 50±5% of the weight of the flour. A small amount of salt (3-5%) is also added to enhance the taste and the structure of the dough. In Japan, udon is traditionally made at home by stomping on the dough with the feet, and this is a great way to entertain family and friends.

Udon

Serves: 4-5

Ingredients:

• 500g medium gluten flour (organic plain flour – see notes above)
• 250g filtered water
• 20g sea salt
• Corn starch, or potato starch for dusting

Instructions:

1. Add flour into a large bowl. Dissolve salt in water in a small bowl, and pour it over the flour, a little at a time, allowing time between each addition for the water to be absorbed. Use your fingers to mix the flour and salt water together, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl. The dough will look lumpy initially. Cover the bowl with cling film or a towel. Leave it to rest for 30 minutes to activate the gluten.
2. In Japan, the stomping method is used to knead the dough. I have tried it myself, and it is very effective. Put the dough inside double layers of plastic bags. Be careful not to rip the bags and use double layers to be safe. Take off your shoes and stomp on the dough a few times. Take the dough out of the bags, fold it, put it back into the bags, and repeat with the stomping action. You will need to stomp the dough 100 times in total. Of course, you can also knead the dough by hand on a wooden board or countertop. It will be a good work out! Use the heel of your hand and your body weight to press the dough and push it away from you. Fold the dough back over towards you and repeat the process for 15 minutes until the dough is smooth and strong.
3. Shape the dough into a ball and wrap it with cling film. After kneading, the dough will be too stiff to be rolled out immediately. It is necessary to rest it for at least 3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the fridge. The dough will relax and the surface will become silky.
4. Cut the dough into 3-4 smaller pieces. Dust each of them with cornstarch or potato starch. Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough until it becomes a sheet of about 3-4mm thick. Lay the sheet lengthwise and loosely roll it up like a carpet. Cut it into 3-4mm wide noodles. Repeat with the other dough pieces. Alternatively, you can use a pasta machine to roll and cut the dough.
5. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling water for 10-12 minutes until al dente. Drain the noodles. If they are to be eaten cold, rinse them under cold water and serve with a sauce. Or transfer them to a bowl and serve in hot stock with the desired toppings.

Chinese Wheat Noodles 

Noodles originated in northern China during the last half of the Han Dynasty when large-scale wheat milling became available, providing flour to make mian or mein (麵), the Chinese word for noodles. Northern Chinese food is dominated by wheat-flour foods: noodles, dumplings, steamed buns, pancakes. The large area north of the Yangtze River has the perfect climate for wheat cultivation. In northern China, noodles are generally made with wheat flour, water and salt only, although in southern China, eggs and kansui are often added to the dough.

In Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu Province, the dough is traditionally hand pulled into noodles rather than being cut. Lamian (拉麵), which means “pulled noodles,” is a very popular dish everywhere in China. It is much more than a noodle dish, but a culture, a tradition and an experience all wrapped up into one little bowl. They are not easy to make and take years of experience to perfect. After kneading and resting the dough, it is rolled out and cut into thick strips. Each strip is then stretched and folded, shaked and slapped against a countertop. The process is repeated several times until it is lengthened to full arm length.

You will find Chinese wheat noodles of different thickness, but they are generally less thick than udon. In general, use medium gluten flour (11-12% protein by weight e.g. organic plain flour) if you are making thick and soft noodles. On the other hand, use high gluten flour (12-14% protein by weight e.g. organic strong bread flour) for thin and hard noodles. You can manipulate the gluten content by using different flours or a mix of flours to get the texture of noodles that you prefer.

Follow the above udon method to make Chinese wheat noodles, although the Chinese would use the hands to knead the dough rather than the feet. Cut the dough into noodles with round, square or rectangular cross-sections of the desired width and thickness, using a pasta machine or a knife. Please note noodles will expand during cooking and so cut the noodles thinner than you would expect.

Chinese Egg Noodles (蛋麵)

Eggs may be added to wheat noodles to enhance the flavour of the noodles and to make it more chewy, especially in southern China. Many people (including myself) prefer to use duck egg for making noodles. It has a higher protein content (12% by weight) compared to chicken egg (10% by weight) and may therefore potentially produce more chewy noodles. It also has a richer taste. A mixture of eggs and water is added into the flour, and the weight of the mixture should be about 45% of the weight of the flour. This will result in a stiff dough (stiffer than the udon dough described above and a normal pasta dough) which is quite hard to knead. It will be a good “workout” to knead by hand, but you will be rewarded with really tasty and chewy noodles.

Chinese Egg Noodles (蛋麵)

Serves: 4-5

Ingredients:

• 500g high (organic strong bread flour) or medium (organic plain flour) gluten flour, or a mix, depending on the texture and thickness of noodles that you prefer
• 225g mixture of 2 duck or chicken eggs and filtered water
• 20g sea salt
• Corn starch, or potato starch for dusting

Instructions:

1. Beat 2 eggs, and mix with water until the whole mixture weighs 225g. Dissolve salt in the mixture. Pour it over the flour, a little at a time, allowing time between each addition for the water to be absorbed. Alternatively, I find it easier to use a stand mixer to do the initial mixing. Turn it on with slow speed, and slowly add the egg mixture, over the course of a minute or so. The dough should start to come together with big lumps. Stop the machine at this point. Use your hands to knead the dough into a shaggy mass. Cover the mixing bowl with cling film or a towel. Leave it to rest for 30 minutes.
2. The dough will be too stiff for the motor of the stand mixer. Knead the dough by hand. It will be hard work, but make good use of your body weight to apply the force. Use the heel of your hands and your body weight to press the dough and push it away from you. Fold the dough back over towards you and repeat the process for 15 minutes until the dough is smooth and strong.
3. Shape the dough into a ball and wrap it with cling film. Allow the dough to rest for at least 3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the fridge.
4. Cut the dough into 3-4 smaller pieces. Dust each of them with cornstarch or potato starch. Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough until it becomes an elongated sheet of about 4-5mm thick, or thin enough to fit into the widest settings of a pasta machine. Run the dough sheet through narrower settings progressively until it reaches the thickness you desire. And then run the dough sheet through the cutting attachment of the desired thickness and cross-sections. Alternatively, use a rolling pin to roll the dough into a sheet, and cut with a knife into noodles of the desired thickness.
5. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling water until al dente. As soon as the noodles are added to the boiling water, agitate them with chopsticks to ensure that they don’t stick together. The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the noodles. Do not overcook. It is a good idea to cook a small amount (e.g. a serving portion) at a time. Drain the noodles. If they are to be eaten cold, rinse them under cold water and serve with a sauce. Or transfer them to a bowl and serve in hot stock with the desired toppings.

Chinese Alkaline Noodles (鹼水麵) or Ramen

Very high gluten wheat flour (14-15% protein by weight e.g. very strong Canadian bread flour) is generally recommended for making this type of noodles so that they have a very chewy texture. (You can also use high gluten flour e.g. bread flour mixed with 1% vital wheat gluten.) The flour is mixed with kansui (alkaline water) to strengthen the binding properties of the protein molecules. Kansui also gives a bright yellow colour to the noodles. The hydration level is about 50±5% of the weight of the flour. Eggs are often added to the dough to further enhance the chewiness of the noodles. (Please see the section above The Ingredients and Their Properties.)

Ramen is one of the most popular noodles in Japan. It originated from China and is made in the same way as the Chinese alkaline noodles. Ramen noodles are thinner than udon, but a wide variety of ramen exists in different geographical regions of Japan. For example, Hakata ramen are thin and hard noodles made from very strong flour, whereas Tsukemen ramen are thick and soft noodles made from flour with less strong flour.

The commercial noodle machine used for producing ramen uses slitter cutters, which come in different sizes and shapes. The slitter cutters are a set of rollers with many grooves, which cut the dough sheet into strands of noodles. In the Japanese Industry Standard (JIS), a numbering system is used to describe the width of slitter cutters and the corresponding noodles. The number refers to the number of noodle strands that can be cut out of the 30mm wide dough sheet. The width of the noodles is therefore equal to 30mm divided by the number. For example, #22 noodles have a width of 30/22=1.36mm. The thickness of noodles is often related to the stock in which the noodles are served. The thinner noodles (#24) used for Hakata Tonkotsu ramen are served in a silky smooth pork bone broth. The soy-sauce-based ramen typically uses #22, and the miso ramen #20.

Like ramen, Chinese alkaline noodles also come in different width and thickness, and vary widely in different geographical regions. The noodles served with wonton in Cantonese restaurants are alkaline water noodles which have been cut by machines or pulled by hands into thin strands. These thin noodles (幼麵) are typically about 1mm in thickness and width. The thick noodles (粗麵) may be round or square in cross-sections and about 1.5-2mm in thickness, or may have a flat shape and cut into a width of about 2.5-3.5mm.

You can buy bottled kansui (sometimes called lye water) in Asian supermarkets. This is a mild solution specially formulated for cooking purposes. It should not be confused with any other type of alkaline solution (e.g. ammonia, bleach). However, I use baked baking soda which has the same alkaline effect on the dough, avoiding the need to hunt for kansui. Baking soda is readily available in any supermarket, and it is easy to make baked baking soda. All you need to do is to spread the baking soda on a baking tray and bake in a preheated oven at 120^oC for 1 hour. I normally bake about 200g each time and store them in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. It can be kept for up to 6 months. The baking process will convert sodium bicarbonate to sodium carbonate, but the baking soda will look the same when baked.

Chinese Alkaline Noodles (鹼水麵) or Ramen

Serves: 4-5

Ingredients:

• 500g very high gluten flour (e.g. very strong Canadian bread flour, or mix 495g bread flour with 5g with vital wheat gluten)
• 2 beaten duck or chicken eggs and warm filtered water, 225g in total
• 10g baked baking soda
• 10g sea salt
• Corn starch, or potato starch for dusting

Instructions:

1. Weight the eggs using a food scale. The weight of 2 duck eggs should be about 132g. Beat the eggs in a bowl.
2. Dissolve the baked baking soda in warm filtered water. The total weight of the eggs and water should be 225g. For example, for 132g of eggs, the amount of water required will be 93g. Make sure that the baked baking soda is completely dissolved.
3. Use a stand mixer to do the initial mixing. Add the flour and salt into the mixing bowl. Turn the mixer on with slow speed. Slowly add the beaten eggs, followed by the baked baking soda solution, over the course of a minute or so. The dough should start to come together with big lumps. Stop the machine at this point. Use your hands to knead the dough into a shaggy mass. Cover the mixing bowl with cling film or a towel. Leave it to rest for 30 minutes.
4. Knead the dough by using the heel of your hands and your body weight to press the dough and push it away from you. Fold the dough back over towards you and repeat the process for 15 minutes until the dough is smooth and strong.
5. Shape the dough into a ball and wrap it with cling film. Allow the dough to rest for at least 3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the fridge.
6. Cut the dough into 3-4 smaller pieces. Dust each of them with cornstarch or potato starch. Use a rolling pin to roll out the dough until it becomes a sheet of about 4-5mm thick, or thin enough to fit into the widest settings of a pasta machine. Run the dough sheet through narrower settings progressively until it reaches the thickness you desire. And then run the dough sheet through the cutting attachment of the desired thickness and cross-sections. Alternatively, use a rolling pin to roll the dough into a sheet, and cut with a knife into noodles of the desired thickness.
7. The noodles may be eaten immediately. But the texture and flavour will improve significantly if they are allowed to “age” overnight in a plastic zip bag in the refrigerator.
8. Cook the noodles in plenty of boiling water until al dente. As soon as the noodles are added to the boiling water, agitate them with chopsticks to ensure that they don’t stick together. The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the noodles. Timing is important because you want the noodles to be cooked but remain chewy to withstand the heat of the stock. It is a good idea to cook a small amount (e.g. a serving portion) at a time. The cooking time will be as short as 30-45 seconds for thin noodles (1 mm in diameter). Drain and transfer to a bowl. Serve with stock and the desired toppings.