Stock

Stock plays a key role in cooking, from soups, sauces, stews, braised dishes to poaching liquid. Every cuisine uses stock in one form or another. Generally speaking, it is prepared by simmering bones, mirepoix (e.g. onions, celery, and carrots) and other aromatics for a number of hours, resulting in a clear, fat-free, flavoured liquid. The basic method is similar for making different kinds of stock. However, bones from different animals need to be simmered for different periods of time. The ingredients may also change slightly depending on the type of stock and the cuisine.  

Making stock is not difficult and well worth the effort, although it will require some patience. It is highly nutritious and have an unsurpassed depth of flavour. But sadly this is becoming a forgotten skill. Most people don’t bother to make stock as it is so easy to use stock powder, bouillon cubes, concentrated stock capsules, or mass-produced stock in cans or cartons. However, I have not found any of these actually tastes like real stock, no matter how expensive they are, and despite what they claim on the package, being free from monosodium glutamate (MSG), artificial colours or preservatives. 

The Frend word for stock is fond, which means foundation. It clearly describes the power and depth of flavour that a good fresh stock adds to food. 

Types of Stock

Stocks are divided into two primary types: brown stock (fond brun) and white stock (fond blanc). In a brown stock, the primary ingredients are browned by roasting before they are added to the stockpot. It has a strong and rich flavour, and deep colour. It is used as a base in brown sauces, gravies, robustly flavoured soups, braised dishes and stews. 

In comparison, white stock is mild in flavour, and used as a base to enhance subtle-flavoured ingredients in white sauces, soups, poached chicken and fish dishes. 

Storing Stock

After the cooking process is completed, stock should be cooled down as quickly as possible to prevent bacterial growth. This may be achieved by putting the stockpot, uncovered, in a sink of cold running water. It may be kept in the refrigerator for up to a week if you reboil it every 2-3 days to kill any bacterial that may have developed. It may be kept in the freezer for up to one year.

I often boil down the stock by about one-tenth of its original volume, or until it becomes a syrupy glace. It is then poured into ice cube trays and stored in the freezer. The frozen cubes may be used as essence to add flavour and colour to sauces, stews or gravies. It may also be diluted with water to be used as stock. I do not add salt to the stock so that the concentrated glaze will not be over-flavoured. It is better not to season the stock but do the seasoning at the later stage of cooking.

Brown Stock

Brown Beef or Veal Stock

This is indisputably the essential sauce base in classic French cuisine. The browning of the bones and vegetables enhances the flavour and colour of the stock. Calf’s foot or pig trotters may be included in the recipe to provide a rich source of gelatine.

Bouquet garni (the French words which mean “garnished bouquet”) is a bundle of herbs usually tied together with string. It is used to infuse the stock with an aromatic flavour. There is no standard recipe for bouquet garni, but most French recipes include thyme, bay leaf and parsley.

Brown Beef or Veal Stock

Ingredients:

• 1.5kg beef or veal bones, coarsely chopped 
• 1 calf’s foot, split lengthwise, chopped and blanched (or 2 pig’s trotters) 
• 1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped  
• 200g carrots, cut into rounds 
• 2 celery stalks, sliced 
• 150g button mushrooms, sliced 
• 2 garlic cloves 
• 1/2 tsp black peppercorns 
• 1 bouquet garni (flat-leaf parsley, thyme and a bay leaf wrapped and tied in a green leek leaf) and a sprig of tarragon 
• 1 tsp double concentrated tomato puree 

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven at 230oC. Trim the veal or beef bones of excess fat. Put them in a roasting tray together with the calf’s root. Roast for about 40 mins or until they are nicely browned. Stir them from time to time so that they are browned evenly. During the browning process, most of the remaining fat of the bones will melt and collect in the roasting tray.
2. Add the onions, carrots, celery and mushroom into the roasting tray. Continue to roast for another 15 minutes or until the vegetables are coloured at the edges.
3. Transfer the bones and vegetables to a stockpot.
4. Pour off the fat from the roasting pan. Deglaze the roasting pan with about 300ml of water, scrapping up all the sediments. Bring to the boil, and pour over the bones and vegetables in the stockpot.
5. Add another 2.5 litres of water, or enough to cover the bones. Bring to the boil, and then reduce the heat so that the surface is barely trembling.
6. Simmer for 10 minutes and skim well to remove the fat and scum, ensuring that the remaining liquid is as clear as possible. Add the garlic, peppercorns, bouquet garni and tomato puree.
7. Simmer the stock gently, uncovered, for 4 hours. Never allow the stock to boil, and it should just shiver. Top up with water if necessary.
8. You may also use a pressure cooker to make the stock. After step 6, put on the lid of the cooker. Bring to high pressure and cook for 2 hours. Allow cooker to depressurise naturally.
9. Strain the stock through a conical sieve lined with a cheesecloth. Don’t force the stock through the sieve by pressing the ingredients as they may result in a cloudy stock. If necessary, you may wish to reduce the stock to the required strength.
10. Leave it to cool and then refrigerate overnight. The next day you can easily remove the solidified fat from the stock’s surface.

White Stock 

White Chicken Stock

White Chicken Stock

Ingredients:

• 1.5kg chopped carcasses and wings of chicken (or a boiling fowl of similar weight, chopped into pieces)
• 1 veal knuckle (optional, but this will make the stock richer) 
• 1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped   
• 200g carrots, cut into rounds  
• 2 celery stalks, sliced  
• White part of 2 leeks cut into chunks, green leaves removed 
• 150g button mushrooms, sliced  
• 1/2 tsp black peppercorns  
• 1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and a bay leaf wrapped and tied in a green leek leaf) 

Instructions:

1. Blanching the bones helps remove impurities. This is important if you want to make a clear broth. Put the chicken carcasses/wings and veal knuckle (if used) in a large stockpot, cover generously with cold water and bring to the boil. Boil for 2-3 minutes. Remove the bones and put them in a colander. Rinse well under cold water. Clean the stockpot.
2. Put the bones back in the stockpot and cover with 2.5 litres of water. Bring to the boil, and then reduce the heat so that the surface is barely trembling. Simmer for 5 minutes and skim well to remove the fat and scum, ensuring that the remaining liquid is as clear as possible. Add all the vegetables, black peppercorns and bouquet garni.
3. Simmer the stock gently, uncovered, for 3 hours. Never allow the stock to boil, and it should just shiver. Top up with water if necessary.
4. You may also use a pressure cooker to make the stock. After step 3, put on the lid of the cooker. Bring to high pressure and cook for 1.5 hours. Allow cooker to depressurise naturally.
5. Strain the stock through a conical sieve lined with a cheesecloth. Don’t force the stock through the sieve by pressing the ingredients as they may result in a cloudy stock. If necessary, you may wish to reduce the stock to the required strength.
6. Leave it to cool and then refrigerate overnight. The next day you can easily remove the solidified fat from the stock’s surface.

Fish Stock

Fish stock becomes bitter if the bones are cooked for too long. Once strained, however, the flavour can be strengthened by further boiling and reducing.

White Fish Stock

Ingredients:

• 1.5kg bones, heads (with the gills removed) and trimmings of white fish, rinsed under cold water and drained 
• 50g butter 
• 1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped   
• White part of 2 leeks sliced, green leaves removed 
• 100g button mushrooms, sliced  
• 2 slices of lemon 
• 1/2 tsp white peppercorns  
• 1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and a bay leaf wrapped and tied in a green leek leaf) 

Instructions:

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Sweat the onion, leeks and mushrooms over low heat for a few minutes. Add the fish bones, heads and trimmings. Cook for 3-4 minutes, and add 2.5 litres of water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and skim the surface. Add the lemon, peppercorns and bouquet garni.

Follow steps 3 and 5 as described in white chicken stock, although the simmering time for the stock should only be about 25 minutes. Let it cool as quickly as possible after straining.

Vegetable Stock

Vegetable Stock

Ingredients:

• 1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped  
• 300g carrots, cut into rounds 
• 3 celery stalks, sliced 
• 50g bulb fennel, thinly sliced 
• 150g button mushrooms, sliced 
• 2 garlic cloves 
• 1/2 tsp white peppercorns 
• 1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and a bay leaf wrapped and tied in a green leek leaf) and a sprig of tarragon 

Instructions:

Put all ingredients in a stockpot together with 2.5 litres of water. Simmer for 1 hour, skimming as necessary. Strain through a conical sieve lined with a cheesecloth and cool as quickly as possible. 

Chinese Superior Stock (Shang Tang 上湯, also known as Gao Tang 高湯)

This is used as the foundation in many classic Chinese dishes. It is called superior stock (上湯/高湯) as it is an extravagant and clear stock used for making luxurious dishes. Every chef seems to have their own secret signature recipes, expressing their art of cooking. This is my version of superior stock. It is quite straightforward as I prefer a clean flavour.

A boiling fowl (an old hen 老雞) or a back silkie chicken (烏雞) is ideal for making the stock as it provides deeper flavour. The classic recipe always calls for Jinhua ham (金華火腿). It is a much-prized dry-cured ham named after the city of Jinhua (Zhejiang province) where it is produced. However, it is not easy to find Jinhua ham outside China. I have found Spanish Serrano ham to be an excellent substitute.

Chinese Superior Stock (上湯/高湯)

Ingredients:

• ½ boiling fowl (about 750g-1kg), or a small black silkie chicken (about 1 kg) 
• 600g organic or free range pork ribs 
• 300g Jinhua ham or Serrano ham in one piece 
• A large knob of ginger (25g), peeled and smashed 
• 4 spring onions, white parts only 

Instructions:

• Blanch the chicken, pork ribs and ham to help remove impurities and ensure that the stock will be clear. Put them in a large stockpot, cover generously with cold water and bring to the boil. Boil for 2-3 minutes. Remove and put them in a colander. Rinse well under cold water. Clean the stockpot.
• Put all the blanched ingredients in the stockpot and cover with 3.5 litres of water. Add ginger and spring onions to the pot. Bring to the boil.
• Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 3 hours. The surface of the stock should be just shivering. Don’t let it boil or the stock will not be clear. Skim off any scum and foam. Let the stock be reduced to about 2 litres.
• Strain the stock through a conical sieve lined with a cheesecloth. Leave it to cool and then refrigerate overnight. The next day you can easily remove the solidified fat from the stock’s surface.

For everyday cooking, you may prefer a less luxurious version. You may wish to replace the boiling fowl by chicken carcasses and wings. You may also skip the Jinhua ham and add some more pork bones. The exact amounts of chicken and pork bones are not critical. Follow the same instructions as above to make the everyday stock. Alternatively, you may wish to use a pressure cooker to cook at high pressure for an hour, and then allow the pressure to release naturally. I have also used white chicken stock described above for everyday Chinese cooking, and it works well.