I do not intend to present a complete review of the subject here as this take will take many pages. This is an account of some of the facts and opinions which are important to know and will enhance our enjoyment of rice cooking.
The Rice Repertoire
Rice is a grain, the fruit of a grass plant. It is the staple food of more than half of the world’s population. Rice is grown on every continent on earth, except Antarctica. China is the largest rice producer in the world, followed by India and Indonesia.
There are countless varieties of rice, each with its own history, stories and cooking methods. Asian rice (Oryza sativa) is the most widely grown with two major subspecies (indica and japonica). They may be classified as short-, medium-, or long-grain based on their length-to-width ratio. The texture of rice is influenced by the amount of two types of polysaccharides that it contains, amylose and amylopectin. High-amylose-containing rice shows high volume expansion during cooking. It is less tender and become hard upon cooling. Rice grains with intermediate amylose content are moist and tender, and do not become hard upon cooling. Glutinous, sticky or waxy rice contains essentially no amylose but a high amount of amylopectin which is responsible for its sticky quality.
A rice grain is made up of an outside husk layer, a bran layer, and the endosperm. The husk layer helps protect the grain kernel from insect and fungal attack. Rice may be categorised according to the degree of milling – brown rice (with the husk layer removed) or white rice (with both the husk and bran layers removed). Brown rice takes a longer time to cook compared to white rice, but it has a rich flavour and nutty aroma. On the other hand, white rice is easy to digest, although most of its nutrients have been taken away by milling. It has mild sweetness, subtle aroma and a tender texture. Top grade white rice is uniformly cream white with a crystalline look with very few broken grains.
Rice has a long storage life. It should be stored in a cool, dark and dry place. It would be best to store it in an air-tight container to keep it out of the insects, and to minimise its exposure to air to avoid oxidation which will lead to a deterioration in flavour. I find it handy to keep different types of rice at home, some in larger quantities than the others. The following are some of my favourites. It is important to understand their characteristics if you want to make the perfect rice.
Rice Varieties
“Hom” for its gentle, unique aroma and “Mali” for its jasmine white appearance – It is the name of Thailand’s finest jasmine rice which is well-known in the world. This traditional variety was discovered by a farmer in Lam Pradoo district, Chonburi province in 1945. It is a long-grain low-amylose rice (an indica variety) and over 40,000 varieties., with a soft, silky smooth and slightly sticky texture when cooked. It has a distinct fragrance which is reminiscent of pandan leaves. The harvest season is from November to December, and the new crop is considered to be the best in terms of quality, texture and fragrance. 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline is the compound responsible for the fragrance of the rice, and its concentration has been found to decrease after harvesting. Thai Hom Mali Rice is most often cooked by the absorption method, plain without any salt and oil.
This is a top-quality rice from the Wuchang City, Heilongjiang Province, China. It is a medium-grain rice (a japonica variety) which is soft, aromatic, sweet and slightly sticky. Wuchang rice is recognised as a “geographical indication protection product” of China. It is more expensive than ordinary rice, and it has been reported that some dishonest merchants sell low-quality varieties as Wuchang Rice at a lower price.
These are medium-grain varieties of japonica rice, which are chewy, sweet and sticky. They are suitable for making sushi and onigiri (rice balls) as they can be moulded easily and taste good even at room temperature. Koshihikari rice was first created in 1956 by combining two different strains at the Fukui Prefectural Agricultural Research Facility. The popularity of Koshihikari influenced subsequent rice breeding, and Akitakomachi was a descendent of Koshihikari. Koshihikari is regarded as the crown jewel in the family of Japanese Rice. Akitakomachi is very similar to Koshihikari but less sticky in its texture. These rice varieties are also cultivated in other parts of the world, such as Northern Italy and California.
The most prized basmati rice is grown in Dehradun, the capital city of the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, in the foothills of the Himalayas. It is a very long grain rice with a needle shape, and best when it has been “aged” before being husked (usually for one to two years, and up to ten years, in order to intensify its flavour and texture). The rice is firm and has a wonderful fragrance (basmati means fragrant in Indian). When cooked, the rice expands in volume, especially lengthwise, and becomes even more elongated. The grains stay separate and does not have the clinging quality of Thai jasmine rice. It is the idea rice for Mogul (North Indian) and Persian cooking. It can be cooked as plain rice, and sometimes cooked in pilafs and biryanis.
Italy produces many varieties of rice that may be used for making the northern Italian dish risotto. They are medium to short grains with a high proportion of amylopectin which is responsible for its sticky and creamy texture. They absorb a very large amount of water (or stock and its flavour) during cooking, but still retain their shape and firmness to the bite. Choosing the correct rice variety is the first step in making good risotto, and the three principal varieties are Arborio, Vialone Nano and Carnaroli.
Arborio is a large, plump grain that is rich in amylopectin and very sticky, making it the preference for the more compact style of risotto that are popular in Lombardy, Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna. It is a cross between the Vialone variety and an American strain called the Lady Wright.
Vialone Nano is a stubby, small grain with more amylose that does not soften easily during cooking, but it has enough amylopectin to make it a suitable variety for making risotto. Vialone Nano is a cross between the Vialone and the Nano varieties (the Nano variety has a short height, “nano” means dwarf). It is the unanimous choice in the Veneto, where the consistency of risotto is looser (all’onda, as they say in Venice, meaning “wavy”) and where people prefer rice that offers resistance to the bite.
Carnaroli is a relatively new variety developed by a Milanese rice grower in 1945. It is a cross of the Vialone with a Japanese strain. It is more expensive, but unquestionably the best among the three. It keeps its shape better than the other varieties during the slow cooking required for making risotto due to its higher amylose content.
I always keep some glutinous rice at home. It is very versatile and can be used in savoury as well as sweet dishes. As explained above, it has negligible amount of amylose but a high amount of amylopectin which is responsible for its sticky quality. There are many varieties of glutinous rice, which include japonica, indica and tropical japonica strains. Sticky rice is the daily staple food in Lao and North/North-eastern Thailand.
Rice Varieties – Carnaroli, Thai Hom Mali and Basmati (From left to right)
Cooking Rice by Absorption
A common method of cooking rice is by absorption. The electric rice cooker is a key appliance in the kitchen in many Asian families, and is designed for cooking rice using the absorption method. It is highly reliable, and the modern ones have sophisticated algorithms which automate the cooking process and keep the rice warm after cooking. However, I do think the time-honoured, traditional method of slow cooking using a clay plot (or a heavy cast-iron casserole / Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid) produces rice with subtly better taste and texture. The important thing is a cooking vessel which builds up the heat slowly and has great heat-retention property. This cooks the rice gently, bringing out its natural sweetness, and continues to cook the rice even after the heat is turned off. It should also have a heavy bottom which distributes the heat evenly so that the rice does not get burnt or stuck to the bottom. Let’s not forget the traditional art of rice cooking, although I do agree the electric rice cooker offers a convenient alternative.
In Japan, artisans make double lid clay pot called Kamado-san Donabe which is especially designed for cooking rice. It originates from Iga which is a historic and prestigious pottery-making province in the Mie Perfecture, about 210 miles southwest of Tokyo. The clay in this region has exceptional heat-resistant qualities when fired. It makes exceptional quality rice because of its heat retention property. Donabe absorbs moisture readily because of its porous body. The rice therefore retains its chewy texture without becoming mushy even after sitting there for a few hours. The Iga-yaki Donable is really a piece of art which looks absolutely beautiful apart from making the best-tasting rice. I own three Kamado-san Donabes in different sizes! I only use them to cook rice in these days, making my electric rice cooker obsolete.
One of My Kamado-san Donabes
Washing and Soaking Rice
There has been a lot of debate whether we should wash the rice or not before cooking. The traditional instruction in rice cooking is to “rinse rice before cooking until the water runs almost clear.” It is argued that rinsing will remove any remaining hull or bran produced during rice milling process, make the rice less sticky and improve the texture. However, a recent research study (Li et al Food Chemistry 271,:388-392, 2019) shows that the loose starch and other materials on the surface of raw rice grains do not contribute to the texture of the cooked rice, and washing has no effect on the hardness and stickiness of the rice. And in my experience, washing has little impact on the taste of the rice too. My conclusion is that washing rice is not a critical procedure, but an optional one. Some people may wish to wash the rice with the intention to remove any dust and unwanted impurities as they would do with any shop-bought fruit and vegetables. But in these days, the rice is cleaned with the stones and impurities removed during the modern milling process, and very well-packaged to keep the dust away.
It is generally suggested that white rice should be soaked in its cooking water for about 30 minutes before cooking. Brown rice and glutinous rice should be soaked in water for at least 6 hours or overnight. Do not use a clay pot or donabe for long-time soaking as its porous body can absorb the content of the soaking mixture. Soaking the rice before cooking allows moisture to get to the centre of the rice grains, and promotes heat transfer during cooking. Soaking thus reduces the cooking time and may help promote even cooking of the rice.
Cooking White Rice by Absorption
Absorption is the recommended method for cooking white rice of the jasmine or Japanese varieties. The volume of water required for cooking white rice is generally 1.1 times the volume of uncooked rice. My grandmother has a little secret in measuring the cooking water. She put her middle finger into the pot with the fingertip just touching the surface of the rice, and would know that she got the right amount of water when the water level reached the first joint of the finger. The Japanese system for measuring rice is called go. The plastic measuring cup that comes with your rice cooker is 1 go, which is equivalent to 180ml. This requires 198ml of water for a 1:1.1 ratio, and is generally the serving size for 2 persons.
The amount of water will vary slightly depending on the variety and freshness of the rice, how firm or soft you would like the rice to be and whether you would need to adjust for any excessive evaporation of water during water. The fresher the rice, the less water it needs for cooking. I always cook rice with a tight-fitting lid, as this not only preserves the heat but also eliminates one factor in estimating the amount of water required. I also prefer to use filtered water for cooking rice, especially if you live in a hard water area.
Cooking White Rice by Absorption
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 2 go white rice (360ml)
- 396ml filtered water
Instructions:
- Rinse the rice if you wish. Combine the rice and filtered water in a clay plot or a heavy bottomed cast iron casserole (Dutch oven) with a tight-fitting lid. Let the rice soak in the water for about 30 minutes.
- Heat the pot over medium heat and bring to boil with the water bubbling vigorously around the rim of the pot. This should take about 8 minutes. Cover and reduce the heat to the lowest possible level.
- Cook for about 18 minutes with the lid on. Do not peek or stir the rice at any stage.
- Remove from heat and let the rice rest for 15 minutes without opening the lid.
- Gently fluff the rice before serving.
Cooking White Rice with Kamado-san Donabe (double lid)
Soak the rice in the pot as described above. Heat the donabe over medium heat for about 12 minutes until steam starts puffing from the hole of the lid. Turn off the heat and let it rest undisturbed for 20 minutes. The heating and cooking time is much shorter due to its excellent heat retention property. You can see why I only use this for cooking rice!
Rice Cooked in Kamado-san Donabe
Cooking Brown Rice by Absorption
Absorption is the recommended method for cooking brown rice of the jasmine or Japanese varieties. The rice to water ratio is approximately 1:1.6 by volume.
Cooking Brown Rice by Absorption
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 2 go brown rice (360ml)
- 576ml filtered water
Instructions:
- Rinse the rice if you wish. Add water into the rice in a stainless steel or glass bowl, and soak the rice for at least 6 hours or overnight.
- Transfer the rice and water mixture to a clay plot or a heavy bottomed cast iron casserole (Dutch oven) with a tight-fitting lid.
- Heat the pot over medium heat and bring to boil with the water bubbling vigorously around the rim of the pot. This should take about 8 minutes. Cover and reduce the heat to the lowest possible level.
- Cook for about 40 minutes with the lid on. Do not peek or stir the rice at any stage.
- Remove from heat and let the rice rest for 15 minutes without opening the lid.
- Gently fluff the rice before serving.
Cooking Brown Rice with Kamado-san Donabe (double lid)
Soak the rice in the pot as described above. Heat the donabe over medium heat for about 30 minutes. (Steam should start puffing from the hole of the lid after 15-20 minutes and continue to heat after puffing until the total cooking time is 30 minutes.) Turn off the heat and let it rest undisturbed for 30 minutes. Uncover and fluff the rice.
Cooking Glutinous Rice by Steaming
Steaming is the preferred method of cooking white glutinous (or sticky) rice. In Thailand and Lao, a conical bamboo basket is traditionally used for cooking glutinous rice. The basket rests on an aluminium pot, and the rice is steamed as the water in the pot is heated. Alternatively, I suggest using a round Chinese bamboo steamer or a stainless steel steaming basket lined with cheesecloth.
Cooking Glutinous Rice by Steaming
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 500g glutinous rice
Instructions:
- Rinse the rice if you wish. Put rice in a stainless steel or glass bowl and add water so that the water level is at least 8cm above the rice, as the rice will expand during soaking. Soak the rice for at least 6 hours or overnight.
- Drain the rice and place it in a Chinese bamboo steamer (or a steaming basket) lined with cheesecloth. Cover with a lid.
- Heat water in a large wok (or a pot if you are using a steaming basket) under medium heat until boiling. Place the basket over the boiling water, cover and steam for about 30 minutes, or until the rice is shiny and tender. Make sure the pot does not run dry and add more water if necessary.
- Cover the rice with damp cloth or lid until serving. Cooked sticky rice dries out quickly if exposed to the air for a long time as it cools.
Cooking Basmati Rice by Boiling
White basmati rice may be cooked by the absorption method as described above. It may also be cooked by boiling which will produce superbly light and fluffy rice. In India, rice is boiled in a heavy round-bottomed, narrow-necked pot which is made of tinned brass or hard bronze alloy. When it is about half cooked, a muslin cloth is tied over the neck to drain off the water. The pot is then tilted so that its side is gently heated over dying coal embers. A few live coals are placed on the top of the pot. The rice is slowly dried off and cooked until tender. In the villages, the cooking water is often reserved and used to starch cotton garments and to feed the calves and cows. The following recipe describes how this can be done in a modern kitchen.
Cooking Basmati Rice by Boiling
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 300g basmati rice
- 2.5 litres water
Instructions:
- Most Indian cookbooks suggest rinsing the rice, although this is not essential. Place the rice in a bowl and add cold water to cover it by about 5cm. Soak for 30 minutes and drain.
- Heat plenty of water (about 2.5 litres) in a large saucepan until boiling.
- Add rice in a steady stream and stir as you do so. Bring the water to boil again.
- Boil the rice for about 5 minutes and taste a few drains. Drain the rice in a colander as soon as the centre is no longer brittle but still has a good al dente bite to it. It should be slightly under-cooked.
- Transfer the rice to an ovenproof dish. Some people prefer to drizzle some melted ghee or butter (about 2 tbsp) over the rice at this stage but this is optional. Cover and cook in a pre-heated oven for 20 minutes at 150oC. As the grains dry, they will separate and become fluffy.
Cooked Basmati Rice
Cooking Risotto
Risotto is cooked by absorption but requires an approach which is different to the absorption method described above. Risotto rice absorbs an enormous amount of water and requires the stock to be added gradually to the pot. The cook will need to stand beside it during the whole cooking process. Patience is the key throughout the process. There are short cuts, such as pre-boiling and reheating, and some electric rice cookers have installed algorithms for making risotto. The results are never good. The end result should be a creamy and rich amalgamation of all the ingredients. It is as comforting and mellow to eat as it is to make. The quality of the ingredients is critical to the success of risotto, and the joy is often the challenge of make something from almost nothing. The stock for making risotto should be light and flavoursome. It is better to use water rather than a poor-quality stock or stock cubes.
There are uncountable number of recipes of risotto. Risotto bianco is the simplest among all the recipes of risotto, and for many, the finest. It may be considered as the basis of all risotto dishes. Risotto is served as a first course in Italy.
White Risotto (Risotto Bianco)
Serves: 4 (as first course)
Ingredients:
- 1.25 litre light, good-quality chicken or vegetable stock (or water)
- 15g vegetable oil (or unsalted butter)
- Half onion, finely chopped
- 200g Carnaroli rice
- 50g unsalted butter
- 50g freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
Instructions:
- Bring the stock to boil and keep it simmering throughout the cooking process.
- Fry the onion in vegetable oil in a heavy-based saucepan over moderate heat. Vegetable oil is a better choice than olive oil which is too strong in taste. You can also use butter although vegetable oil is a lighter option. Cook until the onion is really soft. This can take up to 8 minutes. The onion must be fully cooked before anything is added to risotto. Uncooked onion will end up tasting like crunchy, boiled onion, and the onion should not be browned too.
- Add the rice and stir thoroughly until the grains are coated well. This stage is sometimes called “brilliatura” (sparkling) because the rice becomes glistening and translucent, but it is more commonly known as “tostatura” (toasting).
- Add the simmering stock, a ladle at a time, stirring each addition until nearly absorbed. Repeat this process until all the stock is added and the rice is cooked. This may take about 15 minutes.
- Add the butter and the grated cheese. Stir with great gusto until the risotto is rich and creamy. This stage is called the “mantecatura” (mingling).
- Turn off the heat and let the risotto rest for a few minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately.